kyoto. august 13-21, 2008

here we are. it's really happening. a long journey to begin our adventure. door to door, 36 hours. delayed at pearson, due to volcanic eruption in the Aleutian islands! but we arrived, here in japan, in kyoto, late in the evening, hot and sticky to meet up with our friend and host for the first week, Reina-san. met Chris, and the meows, Kasumi and Tsukiko, and we're all staying in a lovely japanese house, on a quiet property located in sennyuji temple grounds. 

it is unbelievably hot here, we venture out in the evenings. it is obon now in kyoto, festivals of fire and lanterns, it is beautiful. our second night, our first adventure, hopping a fence to reach Kiyomuzi temple! there we join many in passing through the pitch black of the inner sanctum, walking the lit temple grounds at night. then off to find dinner, always an adventure when a vegan is involved. but we end up at an old haunt, from our last trip here in 2003, now a new restaurant, café La Siesta, with a menu for all involved. 

the next night, a fantastic drive into the mountains of northern kyoto to a small village, a fire festival, Matsu-age. our second adventure on our second day, we are in a small car accident on the way! we are all fine, and our drive into the mountains continues. dusk fades into a moonlit night, we share a wonderful meal (prepared by Reina!) on the roadside (yes, literally sitting on the roadside), by candlelight waiting for the festival to begin. we are in a small depression, surrounded by mountains and locals, it is a magical place we would never have found without our host and Makoto (arrigato!). to the sound of the taiko, the festival begins, a procession of fire to the field in front of us. what ensues, the lighting of 1000 torches, then fireballs flung through the air! the goal, light the 70ft torch above. in all, a few hours, and an experience best described visually. 

YOU MUST CHECK THIS OUT!! click here to see video footage of matsu-age torch lighting ritual.

the next night, Daimonji Gozan Okuribi, shared with many, meeting Reina's friend. the days that follow, visiting Gion, culture, history, architecture. a day trip, to Arashiyama, a beautiful area away from the hustle and bustle of the city center. hiking a mountain to see monkeys! kawaii! the park, Iwatayama, a sanctum for the animals, no cages, and no inhibitions! 

Gion again, at night. a return trip to La Siesta, good food, and a great discovery of a local electronic musician's music (Jun Nishimura). then we prepare to leave kyoto for sado gashima on the 21st. our last night, Reina invites us to join her and her guests for dinner. meeting Shin, Junko and Miyazaki-san, enjoying a lovely meal of cold udon and tempura, special vegan ones for me, and traditional ones for the others. oishii! our first week, intense, HOT (did i mention that already?), fantastic. did i mention we've been waking up at 8amish most days? really.