kodojuku. taiko workshop. sado ga shima

september 19th-23rd. 2008

not sure where to begin. how do i put this experience in to words? i can give an account of the events that transpired, but they won't really convey what the experience meant to me. i guess i will try and see what comes out.

two years led up to this. stephen's kodojuku in 2006, his knowing then that i needed to be there, to have this experience. trying not to have expectations, trying to let my own kodojuku unfold in it's own way, for me, easier said then done. stephen leaves early for sapporo on the day i leave for sado, i am on my own in japan. manage to find my way to the ferry port, and double check i am in the right place with the woman sitting behind me in the waiting area. i am here early and have time to reflect before the ferry leaves. spot a young woman in the crowd whom i am sure is going to kodojuku. upon arrival to ryotsu, pick out a few more women in the crowd, and quickly discover that i was right on all counts. somehow you can just tell! we are greeted by kenshu sei (apprentices), eiichi-san and michiko-san, and quickly organized in to car rides for the 1 hour trip to the apprentice center where the workshop is being held. i am in a car with four other participants, and two kenshu sei, one of whom (joe) i had met previously at the kodo bbq awhile back. we are asked questions to get us all talking, and given some explanations as to where we are, where we are going. it is a lovely drive, to an even lovelier place. we settle in, and a tour and orientation follow. we play a game that gets us all to talk to one another, and i end up twice in a group with the sweet girl who first spoke to me at the ferry when we arrived. i am one of three 'gai jin' here, and one of two who don't speak japanese, so anna and i are given a seperate orientation afterwards in english by melanie, explaining all that we heard earlier in the japanese version. free time. then dinner. never sure what to expect with my diet, but i am in good hands as kodo staff member melanie-san is a vegetarian and is overseeing my meals. i am served a lovely meal of the freshest tofu i have ever had, a simple but oishii broth, and some rice and vegetables. an abundance of food, more than i could possibly eat! get to watch the kenshu sei practice in the evening, some lovely conversation and an early night. i feel this place deep in my bones.



get up early. (did i say EARLY?). morning exercises, then a walk (some run). a beautiful landscape surrounds us, and it is a sunny and beautiful morning. another oishii meal, chores, then the workshop begins. we spend the morning stretching and tuning in to our bodies, and i wish i could do this every day. melanie spends the morning in the workshop with us and gives anna and i a really good sense of what is going on and what to expect the next few days. more yummy food for lunch, and i am definetely feeling better fed then i have since our arrival in japan. and the food is fantastic, the apprentices have really outdone themselves, i can only imagine how much the others must be enjoying their food too. then the afternoon workshop. this is a varied group, not only in age and background, but also in taiko experience. we stretch a bit more, then are given a drum and learn how to tune it. once we have readjusted a few times, our drums are ready, and at 3pm, eiichi-san announces that it has been 24hours since our arrival, and we are just now about to begin to play some taiko. this is where my 'blow by blow' account will drop off, and the description of the rest of the workshop will be part an impression, some details, and i hope a sense of what this experience meant to me.




"A" pattern. then "B". later "C" and "D". all taught in a different way, to find your rhythm, your way to learn. traditional singing through the patterns, counting, word play. all coming together, this diverse group, joined in sound. the energy, the passion, uniting, one voice, many hearbeats. the learning curve, finding my way. help from becon and madai, crossing language, guiding, encouraging, affirming. simple, yet profound, an understanding, a way to connect. arrigato. and my group! fumi-san, maiko, kiwi and madai, working through the patterns with me, patient, eager, happy to be of help. and all the others, their unique energy, their taiko voices, bring me joy, a pleasure to watch. and it is there, always, this energy, this coming together, this passion. everytime. i love being here, i love playing taiko with this group (BIO you are still in my heart!).

so many other details, so many little things. lovely morning walks with anna, joe and fumi san. many fantastic conversations at dinner. sometimes just quiet observation, listening to the sound of the japanese language, watching those around me. translation from melanie, joe, belinda, mari, zakky, inviting me in, opening the door. such warm people, this whole group, so genuine. nights in the girls dorm, laughter, practicing after workshop, taiko, taiko, taiko! the kenshu sei, practicing, learning with eiichi-san. so inspiring, fascinating to watch, humbling. chores, such a small contribution to this workshop, everything is taken care of for us. (we are spoiled...). fantastic food, the best fried rice and the best soy burgers i have ever had, too bad i was too full to finish! late nights in the dining room, sitting with everyone while they share a drink. not much sleep, long full days.





the last night, a feast!!! a lovely dinner, a celebration. our performances, each chore group, the kenshu sei, my group, a children's song, sung in japanese. then the stars!!! sugoi, everyone out in the dark, supposed to be lights out, but the stars draw us all outside. the milky way, shooting stars, the city folk in awe. planning our surprise performance for the kenshu sei, our thank you. the last morning. bittersweet. but lovely. little warm up, much to do. this morning, the odaiko. eiichi-san's stunning performance, 3 minutes! our turn. the awe with which we approach the drum. the intimacy with which we play it. each turn unique, some move me to tears. it is so focused, there is nothing else but you and the drum. and it is here to listen, to lean on, to allow. then we are done, it is over, and we are getting our bachi signed, then it is time to leave. we are ushered in to cars, rushed off, sent off by the kenshu sei. at the port, our goodbyes to eiichi-san, michiko-san, gan-san and melanie-san. inside, we wait for our ferries, eat the lunches that the kenshu sei sent us off with. some leave early on the jetfoil, 11 of us wait for the car ferry. a peek inside my lunch bag, the note, translated by zakky. the first line, this is not a dream. but it is starting to feel like it. then i open my lunch, and there is a heart for me, it makes me smile. the long ferry ride back, sleep, conversation, a bit of taiko (on beer cans!). the rush to the train station, suddenly more are parting ways. a small group of us left on the shinkansen to tokyo. madai and i sitting at the back, still in tune, thinking of sado. then i leave at ueno, so i say my final goodbye, first to madai, then to mari, mako and maiko. waiting by the door to disembark, suddenly my four friends are here to wave one last goodbye. i will miss you all dearly. arrigato, words are not enough.