for over a thousand years, these incredible rice terraces have been hand carved; like perfect contour drawings, out of the mountainsides by the hani and yi people. a self sustaining ecosystem. we are very fortunate to be visiting during the winter season, when the rice paddies are flooded with water and thus creating a reflective pool in the terraces. the best time to view them is at sunrise and sunset, when they reflect the vividly colourful sky above. later that evening, at the guesthouse, we easily arrange a driver and car to take us to the terraces the next day. we find two other guests to join us and split the expense. sunrise through to sunset. yes, a 5:30 am pickup at our guesthouse. going to be an early night indeed!
5:30am... ugh. we do manage to wake up on time. so sleepy, but excited. its still pitch black out. we meet the others and the driver out front of the guesthouse and depart for the slow and bumpy one hour ride to "THE" sunrise terrace, "duoyishu". we are only the 2nd van to arrive. its still very dark out. we wait in the van to stay warm. then, from out of nowhere, faces appear at the van windows. peering into the windows with flashlights. speaking... 'ji dan, ji dan, ji dan...'. they are local hani women and girls, selling hard boiled eggs for breakfast ('ji dan' means chicken egg). since we were still half asleep at that time, it was quite surreal. lights shining about. shadowy faces appearing outside. moving about. speaking. sometimes just standing there and staring at us as we sat in the van. and its barely 6:30am yet! a few more vans start to show up. we decide its time to venture out into the darkness and claim our post on the photographers platforms. we are followed closely by the hani women desperately wanting us to buy some eggs from them. we find a nice corner spot on one of the lower platforms. waiting patiently now for the sun to rise and awaken the terraces below us. the hong kong crew show up and slowly the platforms begin filling up. most with tripods and expensive cameras. the rice terraces of yuanyang thankfully do not attract a lot of tourists, just mainly avid photographers, both amateur and professionals looking for the perfect shot. i can feel a buzz in the air. the anticipation and excitement as the sun slowly starts to rise. the terraces begin to shimmer, reflecting the dim light of the sky above. we are fortunate, today is going to be a pretty crisp and clear day. the next hour or so is spent shooting photos and just standing in awe of the incredible scenery awakening before our eyes. never before had i seen such a stunning landscape. breathtaking. unbelievable. rich. intense. shimmering. i stood there in utter disbelief that people had hand carved these mountains into what i now saw before my eyes. incredibly hard working and tireless generations of people created these beautiful masterpieces in such harmony with their environment. oh, and yes, they still do work in these fields and grow rice crops every year!! i will shut up with my somewhat lame attempt to describe these rice terraces now. we hope our photos will give a sense of just how incredible these terraces really are.
...i'm slowly falling in love with this place and the best is still yet to come.
deep breath.
its still early in the morning. next stop is 'bada' terrace. wow!! my favourite of all the terraces. its sheer size and vastness is unbelievable. seemingly going on forever before it drops out of view over the edge of the mountain. absolutely inspiring. my first thought. to run all the way down. stand at the bottom. in the middle. let myself be absorbed by its beauty. how can this be real? how can people have possibly made these? i quickly gained even more respect for the dedicated people of these rural communities and villages all over the world. even though i know it, its something i could never fully understand growing up in today's north america. snapping out of my daze, i begin to attempt capturing this inspiring place with my lens... a couple of more stops. each equally as breathtaking. more photos. we arrive back to town before noon. a few hours to get lunch, rest up before departing again later in the afternoon for sunset.
titian square is at the centre of the old town in yuanyang. while on the way to lunch, we discover that there is a large group of yi and hani women singing and dancing in the square. seemingly rehearsing for something. the voices, beautiful. the music, melodic. the traditional dress, colourful. what is this all for? its infectious to watch. hard to walk away from, but lunch is needed and we go for food. then rest before departing for the sunset terrace.
4pm. we all meet again outside our guesthouse. our driver/guide is excited to take us on the next part of our journey. sunset at 'laohuzui'. one of the popular sunset terraces. on the way, we stop at another terrace to catch a glimpse as the clouds begin to open up and the sun light breaks through in sharp brilliant rays. splashing on the pooled terrraces below. spectacular reflections and sparkles, glistening off the waters surface. we stay a little too long, seemingly mesmerized by the stunning view before us, and have to hurry to make sunset at laohuzui.
we arrive. the viewing platform is quite crowded by now. mostly the same group that was at sunrise this morning. the hong kong crew is there. already set up. i decide to just hover around and take photos from where ever i can find an opening. laurel finds her spot near the far end of the platform. she is quickly neighboured on either side by 2 excitable men with their big tripods and zoom lenses! they are friends with each other. talking to each other behind, in front of and above laurel, we think they are trying to annoy and crowd her out so they can stand beside each other. laurel doesn't give in and holds her ground. the sun begins to set. the shutterbugs happily clicking away at the beautiful and unbelievable scenery unfolding before their very eyes. oranges shimmers reflected amidst deep blue pools. moving. changing shape. brilliance. colour. surreal. the sun slowly descends through pockets of thick clouds. mostly hidden. but noticeably there. laurels' neighbour to her left looks at her. then at her camera. then at her lens. he points to her lens with a look of disappointment and says something to her in mandarin. laurel realizes that he was trying to tell her that she can't possibly take great photos here with that lens on her camera. she knows that already, but its the only lens she has with her. then after much broken english, broken mandarin and excited hand gesturing,he takes his memory card out of his camera and motions for laurel to use her card in his camera to take some photos for herself. what a nice guy. both cameras are canons. unfortunately, his camera uses a compact flash memory card and laurels, an SD memory card. oh well, thats too bad. he doesn't give up though. the grabs his backpack and pulls out 'another' camera (yes, he has brought two with him) with a long telephoto lens on it and proceeds to remove the lens from the camera and hands it over to laurel and tells her to use it to shoot some photos. wow. what a super nice guy. the lens fits on laurels camera!! she is both hesitant and nervous to be using someone elses expensive lens, but is excited with the opportunity to be able to capture the sunset at laohuzui with a new perspective. he wanders off for a bit, happy to be able to help laurel out. after about 30 minutes, laurel hands back the lens and is extremely thankful for his generosity. those two men (we think from beijing) brought quite a refreshing energy to the rice terraces. easily excitable. often humorous. they interacted with us as much as possible with our somewhat limited mandarin and their limited english. but we managed. it was quite a fun and exciting encounter. we would see then again over the next couple of days. always excited and happy to see us and sharing each others photos of the day. the sun set on a lovely day and we all made out way back to the town in our respective cars. plans for dinner with the hong kong crew at the usual place. great conversation, yummy food and much beer drinking ensues. and did we mention it was all very inexpensive? we say goodbye to some of the hong kong crew. dan and neve (really they are from shen zen, not HK, but its close enough) and joe and fleur, all of whom will be leaving yuanyang tomorrow morning for other destinations. its been a great last 24 hours meeting and spending time at the terraces with you. hope to see you again in hong kong. ron and eileen are staying longer. we will meet them again tomorrow and the next day. an incredibly exciting, inspiring and breathtaking first full day at the rice terraces. two more to go. we decide not to get up early for sunrise tomorrow. sleep in a bit. see how the day goes before deciding about heading out to the terraces again.
the next day begins sometime after sunrise, but still well before noon. we decide to move from our guesthouse to a nearby hotel. the exact reason, we are unsure of. maybe the room was a little dingy and uninspired, although the family was very nice and hospitable and helpful. maybe it was the shower that hovered over the squat toilet instead of the usual beside it? either way, we moved to a newer hotel that was right off of titian square. meet up with ron and eileen to discuss the plans for the day. outside is dense fog. hard to see much at all. we are lucky to have decided to not venture out for sunrise. will there be an opportunity for sunset? we'll decide later. somewhat disappointed at the lost photo opportunity because of the weather, but its an opportunity to explore something new. shooting in the fog. we wander the small streets of xinjie town in yuanyang. much is alive here. such spirit and energy. a colourful history. back in titian square the hani and yi women are rehearsing their immense performance again. singing and dancing. the square is as dense with people as it is with fog! this time we find someone to ask what its all about. they have a big local celebration each year near the end of the year 'yuanyang night', in which the women and men from the villages perform for each other and for the people from the town and villages. then they celebrate with a huge 'long street banquet'. its not meant to be a touristy thing at all. we feel extremely fortunate to be here to witness the rehearsals. unfortunately, we won't be here for the main performance. we stand and watch as they run through their performance. sing, dancing and playing a traditional string instrument in one group and another group practicing their fan dance and song. bright coloured traditional dress fill the foggy square with intense splashes of colour. there is no pulling ourself away from watching all of this. well, atleast until hunger sets in. time for lunch.
after a late lunch, we decide to skip going to the terraces for sunset and save it for another full day tomorrow. the afternoon. more wandering through the foggy streets of yuanyang. exploring. then resting. at dinner, the women are back rehearsing in the square. there is no stop in them as they tirelessly run through their routine over and over. we watch and listen yet again. its dark out now. still foggy. the square is spotted with light from lamps and from neighbouring buildings. once again we have to pull ourselves away from watching and listening in order to get food. we eat dinner. drink beer. same restaurant. make plans for sunrise tomorrow morning. 6:00am. better then 5:30am. another early night as we have yet another early morning. hope its going to be clearer weather out tomorrow.
6:00am. our last full day here. we meet ron, eileen and our driver outside the hotel. its still foggy out this morning, but we are going anyways. with hopes that it'll be a little clearer at the terraces. 'duoyishu' again. definitely the most popular sunrise terrace. the one hour drive was spotted with clear patches. then dense fog again. we are unsure how it will be at duoyishu. the driver thinks it'll be a good sunrise though. we hope so. arriving a little later then the first day. we are once again surrounded my the hani women and their children trying to sell us hard boiled eggs. i'm hungry. will buy some later (5 to be exact!!). for now its time to find our spots on the platforms. our friends from beijing are there again. the fog stayed, but in patches creating an interesting effect in the terraces. the sunrise was still quite incredible to watch.
later that morning and into the early afternoon, we visit a few more terraces. as i've spent time observing them from the top. i decide to venture downwards into the terraces themselves. carefully walking along the piled earth ridges. not wanting to damage them and not wanting to fall into a pool of water. hopping down one terrace at a time. hoping that i can make my way back up. often encountering a pig or chicken along the way. how the hell do the pigs climb up these terraces? its amazing that they can be so high up with such short legs!! and we've seen water buffalo walking through the terraces as well. they are huge. with four legs. on barely a one foot wide path of sometimes soft, muddy earth. incredible agility! spotting a nearby village, eileen and i venture down down to see what its all about. a few people outside doing chores. its old. rustic. we wander and explore for a bit then as we are about to leave, we are pretty much chased out by a couple of nasty, intimidating sounding dogs, protecting their homes. i was getting worried for my ankle at one point, but we made it out unscathed. phew! more terrace hopping. its incredibly fun. somewhat challenging, but extremely exhilarating. by the end of the day, i ending up wiping out a couple of times climbing back up, but managed to stay out of the pools of water!! just got myself a little muddy.
lunch back in town. titian square is filled yet again. the women gathered for a big group meeting before rehearsing some more. then, the men finally decide to show up. sporting their drums. we hadn't seen them at all since we got here except as spectators. they practice as everyone else gathers around to watch. something new in the square.
afternoon. another terrace. and more terrace hopping. i could do this all day. then sunset. this time to 'bada' my fave terrace of them all. a perfect place to end our time in the terraces. we arrive to a cloud filled terrace, but it slowly begins to clear as the sun begins to set, giving us some breathtaking moments on the reflective water pools of 'bada', before the clouds crept back in again for good. what a tease. still. it was a spectacular sunset. back in town. our final dinner in yuanyang before departing back to kunming in the morning. laurel is exhausted and decides to rest in the hotel and skip dinner. i meet ron and eileen. it completely slipped my mind, but its christmas eve. to celebrate we each have a glass of bai jiao (chinese rice wine), scooped right out of a huge jug. a small tea cup later and i was feeling the effects of this highly proofed wine. so much so that it would last until the next day! haha. we had a nice dinner. chatted with some other guests and then i said my goodbyes to ron and eileen. it was great to meet you here in the rice terraces of yuanyang. you've made this experience all the more incredible for us. hope to see you back in hong kong in the spring. the square is quiet tonight. no rehearsals. pity. was looking forward to one last performance.
its christmas day. if we still celebrated christmas, we couldn't have asked for a better present then our experience here at the terraces. we are extremely sad to be leaving here. this place is special. the people warm. friendly. the rice terraces. simply spectacular. our time here. just as spectacular. maybe we will see you again.
more yuanyang photos on flickr: click here
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